GIGABYTE Guide
Start at the left side, under “Product List”, select your CPU manufacturer and socket type; you will then get a listing of chipsets applicable to that socket; find yours, select it, and then select your board’s part number. You might get away with pulling that trigger once, and only hear a ‘click’. You might get away with it a second time, too. If flashing is no big deal to you, and you’re confident in your procedure, go ahead if it’s a ‘dud’, you can always ‘flash back’ to the last thing that worked well for you. These ‘down clock’ and/or ‘down volt’ parts of your system. This is a smart thing to do before flashing a moncler outlet online new cheap moncler jackets BIOS (which will ‘erase’ your stored profiles), or for general ‘disaster recovery’!Sorting Out SATAUnless you have one of the ‘cheapies’ less expensive boards, your GB board likely has several pairs of SATA ports, in two colors: purple and yellow, white and blue. The more numerous set of these is connected to your board’s southbridge; the others are connected to either jMicron two port controller chips (which GB calls ‘GSATA’ ports in their BIOS and documentation), or, in the case of the new ‘A’ suffix boards, a Marvell two port SATA3 controller. If you are loading Seven, the southbridge AHCI drivers are now ‘native’ you won’t need to put in the ‘pre load’ drivers. It sees how much RAM it has, and how it’s organized (the screen says ‘testing’, but it’s not really it’s just ‘ennumerating’!); if it has anything on any of its PCI or PCIe busses, and how they’re hooked up; whether it has any drives, and how many, and what type and organization. If AHCI and RAID are disabled, the drive discovery is done early, in IDE mode (for compatibilty, even if they’re SATA drives), and even moncler sale outlet though there is no ‘master/slave’ mode in SATA, the ‘found’ drives will be shown on the standard POST screen as “channel/Master” and “channel/Slave”; ignore the master/slave designations, they mean nothing on moncler outlet actual SATA controllers, and are some kind of ‘compatibilty vestige’! If the controller is configured in either AHCI or RAID, this ‘discovery’ process is not done in the standard (IDE) POST because you can’t have it both ways if the drives were discovered in both POST (IDE) mode, and AHCI or RAID mode the board would ‘think’ it has two ‘hook ups’ to each drive! So, after the standard POST runs, the ‘discovery’ done by the ‘Option ROM’ is run. This, also, will ‘ennumerate’ the drives. It usually occurs after a ‘screen clear’, and will display, first, the Option ROM version information, then the ‘discovered’ drives, along with their ‘type’, and then a “Press to configure.” message. For RAIDs, this discovery is kind of slow, as the RAID BIOS must verify the physical status of the actual stripe(s)/mirror(s). You may not be seeing some of this if you have the boot ‘splash’ screen enabled (see BIOS General Settings above); disabling this will allow you to ‘see’ more of what’s going on. Cheap (say, less than $400?) RAID cards do the same thing, and that’s why drives on them can generally be ‘discovered’ by windoze without a driver, unless they are RAIDed then they, too, require the ‘F6′ driver procedure. On pricier RAID cards, what’s happening is a dedicated processor (an SiS or Intel IOP341) is running the protocol stack and the parity calcs, which ‘frees’ the main CPU from the burden. When you start getting way up cheap moncler outlet there in price, you might even get an Intel IOP342, or 348, with dual cores one running the SAS stack, and the other dedicated to the parity calcs and the throughput goes through the roof! When RAIDing, there is a ‘chunk’ of RAID chip/chipset BIOS (called an ‘Option ROM’) moncler outlet sale added to the system BIOS, which is only activated when you have enabled RAID for the ports https://www.monclerdownjacket.biz in the main BIOS, and the chip/chipset detects at least two drives; this RAID BIOS is where you ‘build’ the RAIDs. Once this RAID BIOS ‘takes over’ the drives, they are no longer ‘discovered’ by the main BIOS this is why the drives ‘disappear’ off the standard POST screen. After you have created the RAID volumes, during the OS install when you are selecting the drive and partition, there is a ‘load drivers’ item ( prompt for Xp) you need to do that, with the ‘pre load’ drivers for the selected chip/chipset while the ‘run time manager’ stuff ‘watches’ the RAIDs, detects any inconsistencies or problems, and repairs them (if possible) ‘on the fly’. Realize that, if you are doing this, and running memory faster than 800, which is already ‘overvolted’ (likely, 2.1V instead of 1.8V JEDEC), you are both over volting and over clocking your MCH stability may require MCH cooling:Power Supply ConnectorsAlmost all modern CPUs, on recent MOBOs, require an ATX 12V moncler outlet connector, but the whole 2×2 vs 2×4 thing is ‘iffy’ it’s not set in stone. My rule moncler sale of thumb is: 90 Watt TDP if it’s above, 2×4; below, 2×2 will likely do. If you’re buying new may as well overkill might want moncler outlet store to swap in a ‘monster’ later. Three reboots in a row, however, usually indicates that the board was moncler mens jackets ‘given indigestion’ by your settings, and is going back to defaults. This sometimes goes astray, and it doesn’t get back into proper operation for example, at this point, mine will sometimes ‘lock’ itself into 111MHz x a six multiplier and take a week to do a whole boot that’s time to do a CMOS reset.’Thermally induced’ boot loops this syndrome is seen when the board appears to boot OK, completes POST (usually) and gives the single “I’m good” beep, but before it can load the OS, and without a ‘powered down’ interval between, resets and POSTs again. These buy moncler jackets ‘loops’ may get closer (shorter) each time, until the system is never actually finishing POST. This usually indicates a problem with the CPU’s ability to ‘dump’ heat to the HSF (heat sink/fan assembly) the processor is repeatedly going into ‘thermal shutdown’! For this set cheap moncler coats of symptoms, you need to first examine your HSF installation; an ‘unseated’ locking pin, or a cracked one, will cause this, as will a non functional fan (defective, or not plugged in correctly), or poor application of thermal paste. You will likely need to remove your board from the case to examine the locking pins carefully.’Corrupted CMOS’ boot loops this will cheap moncler sale usually give you a ‘twin boot’ symptom, much like the normal ‘double boot’ when changing parameters; your system will boot once, power down for a second, attempt to boot again, reset without the power down, attempt to boot yet again, power down rinse, lather, repeat! These are most often caused by an ‘errant’ USB device (see USB Woes, below), but can be caused by an ‘unacceptable’ attempt cheap moncler at overclocking parameters, a buffer overrun (you do have the “No Execute Memory Protect” BIOS item on the “Advanced BIOS Features” page enabled, don’t you?), or a bad DIMM. ‘Power related’ boot loops If your power supply fails ‘gracefully’, you will get the telltale repetitive short BIOS beeps however, often this is not the case! Typically, the symptom here will be quickly recycling attempts to boot, while never activating the display, or beeping at all. Often the ‘giveaway’ here will be either the fans momentarilly ‘revving’, then shutting down, or the ‘phase LEDs’ flashing once or twice between shutdowns. ‘Boot loops’ are the most common symptom. On the BIOS’ “Integrated Peripherals” page, set “Legacy USB storage detect” (later BIOS say “USB Storage Function” ) either way, set it to “Disabled”. If you still get looping with all USBs out, and that setting made, see ‘Boot Loops’ above, for the ‘break a loop’ procedure!If you’ve been reading here for any amount of time, you’ve seen me fix a couple machines just by having people unplug USB devices, and you’ve probably seen (likely more than once) my lecture about the “Legacy USB storage detect” (AKA “USB storage function” in later BIOS) wanting to be off for most purposes. These two items account for most of the ‘dreaded GB reboot loops’. Had an interesting experience a while back that is a perfect illustration: I have had a number of USB devices in my X48 DS5 for a long time HID (Logi G11) keyboard, mouse, ESA fan controller board, IR remote eyeball, webcam, and most important to this narrative, an 8G HyperX thumbdrive, used for ReadyBoost no problems. Did have a peculiarity several months ago, when I tried to install a USB connected X 10 house control repeater software refused to install, as it appeared never to ‘find’ the device never thought much about it put it on another system without as much crap loaded onto it, can remote it from anywhere on the house net didn’t care. Couple days ago, was browsing at HackMediaCenter7, where they mentioned better performance for your ‘live TV’ pause buffer by moving it to a thumbdrive had a couple laying around (8G OZC ‘Diesels’ free from NewEgg with some OCZ DDR2 1150 for testing) so thought I’d try it wasn’t happy, put it back, and rebooted with the ‘Diesel’ plugged in WHOOPS! two reboots, with a brief power down between them VOILA! overclock gone! Loaded saved OC from CMOS storage, saved rebooted WHOOPS! two reboots, with a brief power down between them VOILA! overclock gone again! Hmmm. Pulled USB stick, loaded saved OC from CMOS storage, saved rebooted back to normal! Hmmm. Put stick back in same problem repeated! Thought, just for the sake of testing, let’s enable “USB storage function” saved, rebooted and rebooted, and rebooted, and rebooted AH HA! The dreaded ‘GB reboot loop’! Replaced the first Diesel with the second one, just for thoroughness’ sake: same performance repeats “USB storage function” disabled, loses OC every boot; “USB storage function” enabled, reboot loop! Mind you, HyperX and Diesel both 8G, both formatted NTFS, neither containing boot files one good, one not so good. So, that’s exactly why I recommend unplugging USBs when trying to escape from the ‘reboot blues’. Unbeknownst to him, his daughter ‘flipped’ the drive’s ‘on’ switch, and, POWEE instant ‘boot loops’!Speaker Beep CodesThere is only one thing to say about case speakers get one!! You won’t often need it, but when you do need it, it’s usually all you have to work with at that point. Well, to you, they’re ‘rear’ speakers; to me, they’re ‘rear’ speakers, too. In fact, apparently to everyone but RealTek, they’re ‘rear’ speakers to them, they’re ‘side’ speakers, and if you don’t set ‘em up that way no workee! Go into the ‘Audio Manager’, and do this:Clicking on the ‘arrow’ circled in green will produce a (strange) ‘test sound’ which will ‘circulate’ around the room. If you find you’ve plugged ‘em into the wrong connectors, right clicking on the picture of the jack will allow you to ‘re task’ it to match how you’ve plugged ‘em in. Also, be aware while you can check ‘no load’ voltage, if there’s a short somewhere, or the rail itself is bad, it may be ‘folding back’ under load (kind of like blowing a fuse or a circuit breaker), and not actually delivering the power you ‘see’ at ‘no load’.
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